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The Last Train to Zona Verde: My Ultimate African Safari, by Paul Theroux
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From Booklist
*Starred Review* Having traveled overland from Cairo to Cape Town in Dark Star Safari (2003), Theroux intended, 10 years on, to resume the trip, this time heading north up the west side of Africa, avoiding the “safe and well-trodden routes.†Though he found some happy moments in “the kingdom of light,†the journey was to be darker, harder, and, a rarity for Theroux—unfinished. He does find hopeful change in Cape Town, beautiful desolation in Namibia, and elegance in the bush in Botswana (albeit at extortionate prices). But when he crosses the border into Angola: chaos. After witnessing scene after scene of disorganization, poverty, and despair; after decrying the disconnect between the country’s oil-rich rulers and its unemployed, idle citizens; after finding “cities that were indistinguishable from one another in their squalor and decrepitude,†he concludes there is nothing more he can learn from their suffering. Ending what seems an impossible trip, he heads for home. Ultimate in the subtitle means not best but final. As Theroux, in an autumnal state of mind, ponders his own mortality, it will be difficult for readers to imagine the world of letters without him. His ability to map new terrain, both interior and exterior, and to report from places that seldom make the news, remains undiminished. HIGH-DEMAND BACKSTORY: Theroux’s back-to-Africa novel, The Lower River (2012), was Booklist’s Top of the List. But any book by the eminent author draws interest, and a national tour is planned. --Keir Graff
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"Thoroughly engrossing—from Cape Town to Namibia to the Okavango Delta, Theroux is his inimitable, delightfully grouchy and incisive self…At times tragic, often comical and always gorgeously written, this is a paean to a continent, by a writer unafraid to give it some tough love." —Washington Post "He has no illusions about the fact that he is just a passing visitor (a privileged one at that), but that doesn't make his observations, or exquisite writing, any less engaging." —Entertainment Weekly (Best Book of the Year) "Theroux is at his best when he tells their stories, happy and sad...Theroux’s great mission had always been to transport us beyond that reading chair, to challenge himself—and thus, to challenge us." —Boston Globe "If this book is proof, age has not slowed Theroux or encouraged him to rest on his achievements…Gutsy, alert to Africa's struggles, its injustices and history." —San Francisco Chronicle "Everything is under scrutiny in Paul Theroux’s latest travel book—not just the people, landscapes and sociopolitical realities of the countries he visits, but his own motivations for going where he goes…His readers can only be grateful." —Seattle Times "A rich story often laced with irony, the work of a keen observer, full of colorful encounters…Ever the astute questioner, ever the curious reporter, ever a forthright witness to history and the dilemma of the oppressed, alert to political thuggery, he chronicles the crises facing the sub-Sahara." —New York Journal of Books "Theroux takes you on a rocky safari across infringed wilds, disenfranchised poverty and coven luxury. He introduces you to a boil of angry indigenous peoples and unsettled migrants you won’t meet on an itinerary tour....Go on, turn the first few pages. Then I dare you to put it down." —Charleston Post-Courier "As in the best of his many books, Theroux convincingly takes you along for every manic bus ride. His wonderment is yours, whether he’s contemplating eating a flyblown leg of chicken, dealing with a ferocious Angolan border guard, or deciding that this time, he’s had quite enough. It’s a remarkable, teeth-gritting tale" —Everett Potter "His ability to map new terrain, both interior and exterior, and to report from places that seldom make the news, remains undiminished." —Booklist ( starred review) "Theroux’s prose is as vividly descriptive and atmospheric as ever and, though a bit curmudgeonly, he’s still wide open to raw, painful interactions between his psyche and his surroundings." —Publishers Weekly (starred review) "In this intensely personal book, Theroux honestly confronts racism, stigma, privilege and expectations...Reading this enlightening book won’t only open a window into Theroux’s mind, it will also impart a deeper understanding of Africa and travel in general." —Kirkus (starred review)
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Product details
Hardcover: 353 pages
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; F First Edition edition (May 7, 2013)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 061883933X
ISBN-13: 978-0618839339
Product Dimensions:
6.2 x 1 x 9.2 inches
Shipping Weight: 10.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.1 out of 5 stars
277 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#821,055 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Listen up! Paul Theroux is my main man on the move and I'll not give him a bad review. We're exactly the same age and I really admire him for suffering through the trip so described in this book. This is the point to a travel writer: Does he/she write the truth or not? Paul Theroux is a writer who is known for giving us the unvarnished truth. On this trip, he's a cranky old buzzard who is in his 15th round and has a right to describe a dirt pile as a dirt pile. In fact, as a travel writer is has a responsibility to describe a dirt pile as such. Anyone keeping up with current affairs will not be surprised by the African experience passed along by Paul Theroux. Yes, it is unpleasant and very annoying to read so much of it, but that is what he saw, and that is what he described. And what was he doing there? That is a question we all ask of ourselves, especially when he pass 70. Chill out, Paul; next time pick an easier far more enjoyable country(ies).
Travel with Paul Theroux is always an enlightening, but rarely uplifting, experience. He is a gifted writer whose prose unlocks vivid images and portraits of exotic places and peoples, this time in southwest Africa. In "The Last Train to Zona Verde" (a term used in parts of Africa to describe the "bush"), Mr. Theroux refuses to let the reader turn a blind eye to the desperation, hopelessness, and plight of the swath of Africa through which he journeys. And that is precisely what we can most appreciate in him. Few would go where he has gone, and even fewer could write with such elegance and veracity about the experience.Mr. Theroux was no stranger to Africa when he journeyed there for his final adventure chronicled in "Zona Verde". As a youth, he spent many years in Africa; as a traveler, a schoolteacher, and a writer. In this final saga, he makes a nostalgic return to the continent almost a half a century later for what he senses from the outset will be his final journey there.Mr. Theroux struggles with what he characterizes as his own"voyerism of gawking at poverty". He starts out in Cape Town, eschewing the glamorous side of this fashionable town and clambering to "go slumming" in the outskirts of the city. High society and the beautiful side of life seem to bore him. He rationalizes that his desire to travel is not like other "tourists" (he calls himself a "traveler"): he is a writer looking for mutability, what has changed over time, and to opine on whether change has been for the better. He rarely seems to conclude that it has.Who, according to Mr. Theroux, is a traveler? Ideally, it is one whose journey is a laborious quest into the unknown. Mr. Theroux admonishes that reading one of his books, although stimulating, is no substitute for travel. He takes us via every conceivable mode of public transportation and on foot, dragging us through the mud, so to speak, across hostile borders. I am no armchair tourist, but I think I will skip the fly-infested chicken legs and endless garbage heaps he describes, but am happy to experience all he encounters vicariously.From sterility in the aftermath of the civil war, to the slow but steady ascendency of the new Chinese colonialism, Mr. Theroux, undeterred by warnings and, indeed, somewhat stimulated by them, takes us on a journey through one of the most corrupt and godforsaken countries on earth - Angola. He peels back layer after rotten layer of corruption and destitution in a country nonetheless dripping in gold, oil, and diamonds. This is Mr. Theroux at his best, and humanity at its worst.Not surprisingly, Mr. Theroux is not a huge enthusiast of the multitude of NGOs and other humanitarian efforts in Africa and their attempts to raise the bar in education and living standards. He sees such efforts as largely having failed in their quest. He perceives corruption as the main impediment to success despite billions in aid poured into the continent.On his journey, Mr. Theroux finds one bright spot in remote Tsumkwee, in northwest Namibia. There he visits NGO-sponsored schools where he is invited to speak. But impressed as he is in this remote village by the cleanliness of the children, the level of their English, and eagerness of their desire to learn, he nonetheless expresses skepticism about the ability of these children to find future opportunities in their own country. Here, at least, foreign aid dollars appeared to be making some difference.Mr. Theroux is nostalgic in "The Last Train to Zona Verde", not just for his earlier days of travel, but also for his youth. "As a young man, I never entertained this idea of death in travel. I had set off for Africa almost fifty years ago with the notion that my life had at last begun." But time inevitably transmutes his perception, "During my last few long trips I often thought that I might die. I was not alone in that fear; it is the rational conjecture of most travelers I know, especially the ones about my age."With this swan song, Mr. Theroux is at his zenith as a travel writer, but also as a travel philosopher now more in touch with his own mortality. "This is what the world will look like when it ends," he writes as he nears his final destination outside Luanda, Angola. It is as though he traveled to the end of the earth to render the final strokes of his pen.
Want to know what was on Paul Theroux's mind in, probably, 2011 as he traveled in South Africa, Namibia, Botswana (briefly), and Angola? Well, this slightly crazed reader of THE LAST TRAIN TO ZONA VERDE categorized his underlines and then tabulated the results and his personal take on Theroux's top-five concerns is: the connections between politics and corruption in Africa, 16 underlines; cultural anthropology and tribal histories, 13 underlines; squalor and pervasive poverty, 11; the presence of death in Theroux's life, 7; and the history and lingering effects of colonialism and apartheid, 7.Among these top-five concerns, cultural anthropology and tribal histories were the most interesting to me. While Theroux explored these interests as he traveled in South Africa and Angola, they rose to the top in Namibia, where he tells what he knows and sees about what the Afrikaners once called the Bushmen, Hottentot, kaffirs, and so on. This following fact about the so-called Bushman was new to me and quite moving. "I was ducking among the thornbushes with slender, golden-skinned people who were the earth's oldest folk, boasting a traceable lineage to the dark backward and abysm of time in the Upper Pleistocene, thirty-five thousand years or so ago, the proven ancestors of us all, the true aristocrats of the planet."Theroux finds much to like in Namibia. This includes an effort to preserve native cultures, a freshly imagined and possibly effective structure for foreign aid, a flourishing environment for large animals, and a welcome tidiness at the core of its cities and towns. Likewise, he enjoys himself in Botswana, where he spends a few days at a lavish elephant safari camp, which provides a taste of what he calls travel-magazine Africa.Similarly, Theroux finds some (although fewer) things to like in South Africa. He takes sardonic pleasure in the lux life that is still possible in Cape Town. And he sees that some of the shanty towns he visited ten years before (Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Capetown) have progressed and now offer sturdier housing and sometimes even plumbing. Nonetheless, he is appalled by the squalor in which most black South Africans live and is repelled by several of its leading politicians, especially the venal and baleful Julius Malema.In contrast, Theroux finds almost nothing to like in Angola. While he is pleased to stumble upon the existence of ancient tribal ceremony in the ravaged countryside, he calls the Angolan government "...corrupt, predatory, tyrannical, unjust, and utterly uninterested in its people--fearing them..." Further, "...Angola was too busy with its commercial extortions to be a police state. It was a government of greed and thievery, determined to exclude..."I carp and say that Theroux would enrich his excellent travel books if they had indexes. Nonetheless, THE LAST TRAIN is an eye-opening and rewarding read. Paul gets the last word. "In the broken unspeakable cities of sub-Saharan Africa, the poor--the millions, the majority--ignored by their governments, live a scavenging existence in nearly identical conditions, in shacks, amid litter of Chinese-manufactured household junk... They all suffer from the same inadequacies--food shortages, no plumbing, no clinics, no food, no schools--and the same illnesses--cholera, malaria..."Highly recommended.
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